Ruth Minoletti is a sixtysomething skincare therapist with clients up to the age of 84. Here she offers her expert advice for caring for older skin

Keep a diligent cleansing routine

This is still the foundation of good skincare practices. Over-65s also need to use a richer, more lipid cleanser (it should feel quite oily and ’rounded’ when you rub it between your finger and thumb). Continue using a toner which, while removing all traces of the cleanser, is still very gentle on the skin.

Protect your skin from ultraviolet light

Much of our ageing comes from light damage – turn your arm over and look at the difference between that and the more exposed, upper arm. I particularly like the SPF formulas containing the mineral reflectors titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, but a new ‘active’ in sun protection comes from the neutralising action of fernblock (polypodium leucomotos, a South American fern).

Focus on your eyelashes

Just like the hair on our heads, our eyelashes and eyebrows lose color and thickness. Besides having them dyed, which lends definition to the face, I also love using an eyelash-growing cream. I’ve been using it for decades, but I don’t think it is ever too late to start. Use it only in the mornings if you find that using it at night makes your eyes puffy.  *RevitaLash – Eyelash Conditioner * New Eye Safe formula!!!

Have regular facials

There is nothing quite as good as a well-performed facial massage to stimulate circulation and tone up the muscles. A good therapist should also be able to work the lymphatic system. If you can’t afford to have a facial regularly, give yourself a mini facial when applying your night creams, with some gentle pinching and tapping movements.

Use cosmeceutical ranges

Quite often cosmetic products contain the right active ingredients but not in sufficient dosages. If you try something and it does not deliver the anticipated results, it might be because it is either not in sufficiently high levels to produce results or is not formulated for effective penetration.

Look out for active ingredients

Keep an eye out for products containing one or more of the following ‘actives’. Over the years, I feel that they have proved their worth:

• Vitamins A, C ,E
• Beta Carotene
• B5
• Niacinamide (B3)
• Pycnogenol
• Co-enzyme Q10
• Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matryxl)
• Alpha lipoic acid
• Copper Peptides
• Idebenone
• DMAE
• Carnosine
• Magnesium
• Green tea
• Beta-glucan
• Hyaluronic acid

Try new things

I have deliberately left out some of the newer antioxidants, lighteners and brighteners, and powerful repair enzymes, as they are currently found in too few products. However, if you like to use cutting-edge products with exciting new ingredients, you will find quite a few of them in the Skinesis and Environ ranges.

Consider collagen induction therapy

I am pretty amazed by the results of ’skin needling’ or collagen induction therapy (CIT). This professionally performed treatment creates multiple piercing of the skin under a local anesthetic. The response in the skin to this ‘wounding’ is to produce collagen and elastin fibres over an eight- to 16-week period, lending more support and elasticity to the skin and making it appear smoother.

Take essential fatty acids daily

‘Good fats’ protect the lipid parts of your body. I like Udo’s Choice Oil Blend 32-Ounces , which plant-derived, and Nature’s Plus – Ultra Omega 3/6/9 1200Mg Softgels 120 , made from borage, fish and flax. Both are available from healthfood shops and must be kept in the fridge.

Eat and drink healthily

Drink at least four glasses of water a day, plus antioxidant-rich green, rooibos, white or honeybush tea. Avoid trans fats by avoiding processed foods – go back to cooking and baking from scratch. Do eat nuts, seeds, fruit and vegetables. If you can no longer chew nuts, you can eat ground nut and seed mixes sprinkled on to porridge. For breakfast, I love a dollop of yoghurt, a bit of muesli, nuts and seeds, fresh berries, a drizzle of Udo’s oil, a light sprinkling of cinnamon and a little honey. Delicious!

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Anti-aging creams with synthetic snake venom

Skin-care companies such as Sonya Dakar, Syence, Borba and Planet Skincare are making lotions that contain a synthetic venom called Syn-ake. They say the products smooth wrinkles by relaxing facial muscles.

Maybe we can blame snakes for our wrinkles. After all, as the story goes, it was a snake that tempted Eve, getting her expelled from Eden and doomed to a mortal life filled with fine lines and wrinkles. So isn’t it about time that the slithering serpent made amends? More than a half-dozen skin-care companies think so, incorporating a synthetic venom into their formulations to help diminish signs of aging.

The products sprang from an “aha!” connection: When poisonous snakes strike, they paralyze their prey by injecting them with a toxin through hollow fangs. And if snake venom can paralyze muscles, couldn’t a targeted version work like a topical Botox?

Enter SYN®-AKE Active Pure Peptide, a compound developed by Swiss pharmaceutical company Pentapharm, to mimic a protein found in the venom of the temple viper.

“I wanted to develop a Botox alternative for my clients who complained of side effects or wanted to avoid the injections all together,” says Sonya Dakar, co-founder of Sonya Dakar Skincare, who incorporated Syn-ake into her UltraLuxe-9 cream. According to Phentapharm, the ingredient works as a neuromuscular block, preventing sodium ion uptake in the muscle and keeping it in a relaxed state. Relaxing the facial muscles can help prevent deeper expression lines, while smoothing skin in the process, says Sean Campbell, director of Syence Skin Care, which produces Syence Servital Active Anti-Aging Tissue Defense.

Pentapharm measured the smoothing effect of a Syn-ake-infused cream compared with a placebo in a 28-day trial. According to the company, 67% of the participants using the cream reported a decrease in muscle contraction, and wrinkle size was reduced by 52%. Borba, which incorporates Syn-ake into its Advanced Aging Reverse & Tone Serum, did its own blind consumer testing study. “Seventy-nine percent of women reported they could feel the product working, tightening and firming the skin,” says the company’s founder, Scott-Vincent Borba.

But experts wonder whether the topical formulations penetrate deeply enough to effectively inhibit muscle contraction. After all, Botox is injected for a reason — to deliver the compound directly into muscle tissue.

“Is the active ingredient really absorbed into the skin like Botox?” asks dermatologist Dr. Vermén Verallo-Rowell. “The action may just be as a good moisturizer, which does soften wrinkles.”

“Skin is programmed to keep proteins out,” adds Dr. Leslie Baumann, author of “The Skin Type Solution.” And the chemical must travel through several layers of skin and subcutaneous fat to reach and penetrate the muscle.

“The smaller the molecule and the more fat-soluble, the deeper that chemical can get into the skin,” says Dr. Corey Maas, fellow of the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. After evaluating Syn-ake, Maas says the molecule appears to be small enough theoretically to penetrate; however, without more studies, he says, it’s difficult to evaluate the effectiveness of the ingredient.

He also points out another dilemma for skin-care companies incorporating the synthetic venom formulation. Once a compound “goes through the skin and becomes pharmacologically active working as a drug to relax muscle, it could in theory be absorbed through the body and affect other” areas, Maas says. “It’s a Catch-22. It goes from the cosmaceutical-you-don’t-need-FDA-approval range to a range where it needs to be studied for its safety and its efficacy.”

Skin Venom’s Campbell, for his part, compares Syn-ake to retinol, the less active version of Retin-A found in many beauty products, and not regulated by the FDA.

With so many skin-care companies using Syn-ake, what sets one cream apart from another? “You can make two cakes and have the same ingredients, but it’s the way in which these ingredients are put together that makes the difference,” says Caroline Clapperton, founder of Planet Skincare. Planet Skincare’s daily moisturizer incorporates argireline and GABA to help relax muscles, antioxidants such as vitamin A and C, and retinoic acid, which speeds up cell renewal. The creamy formulation spreads easily, comes packaged with a plastic scoop and smells like roses.

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Factors that impact emotional well-being, such as stress, depression and anxiety, can increase skin, hair or nail problems, according to Richard G. Fried, M.D., Ph.D., F.A.A.D., a dermatologist and clinical psychologist of Yardley, Pa.

“There is, indeed, a reciprocal relationship between feelings and appearance, and how failing to address these concerns can affect how we look, feel and function,” Dr. Fried says.

Dermatologists can advise patients to recognize these secondary symptoms of stress.

“When patients are going through a rough period in their lives, negative emotions can wreak havoc on their appearance. As a result, patients might start to notice that their hair is thinning, their skin is inflamed or their nails are brittle — which can be physical manifestations of their mental state,” Dr. Fried tells Dermatology Times.

“Dermatologists can play a key role in helping patients not only alleviate these physical symptoms, but also help enhance their quality of life during a difficult time,” he says.

Interventions

Stress can manifest in many ways, primarily by making the skin more sensitive and more reactive.

For example, Dr. Fried says, stress can make rosacea more red, result in acne lesions that are more inflamed and more persistent, cause brittle nails and ridging of the nails, cause hair loss, cause or worsen hives, and cause excessive perspiration.

In addition, stress is a known trigger, or can be a worsening factor, for fever blisters, psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis, and has even been shown to impair skin barrier function and dehydrate the skin — allowing more irritants, allergens and infectious agents to penetrate the skin and cause problems. Stressed skin often appears stressed, distressed and older.

“When it comes to treating patients who we suspect may be experiencing skin, hair or nail problems as a result of stress or other emotional factors, it is helpful to ask them whether their skin seems to look or feel worse when they are stressed,” Dr. Fried says.

“Beyond the direct physiological effects of stress, patients under stress also tend to neglect or abuse their skin, lacking the energy and motivation to adhere to their skincare regimens,” he says.

To successfully treat stress-related dermatologic conditions, Dr. Fried says dermatologic therapies should be used in conjunction with appropriate stress-management strategies.

For example, stress-reduction interventions and techniques, such as yoga, meditation and daily exercise, can reduce the culmination of negative events that can worsen many of these problems.

Research

Studies show that people tend to be more distressed by skin, hair or nail problems, since they are so visible and uncomfortable, than by other serious medical conditions, such as heart disease or diabetes, Dr. Fried says.

“When dermatologists treat both the skin and the stress, the skin often clears more quickly and completely as the native influences of stress are diminished,” he says.

Dr. Fried adds that stress reduction can decrease the release of pro-inflammatory stress hormones and chemicals.

For example, release of neuropeptides, the stress chemicals released from the nerve endings, can be reduced with stress-management techniques. Skin often looks and functions better as a result.

These interventions can reduce blood vessel overactivity, resulting in less blushing or flushing.

Decreasing stress allows the patient to focus more positive energy on good skincare rather than negative behaviors, he says.

“Often (when) people are under stress, they tend to ‘fall off the wagon’ in terms of practicing good skincare,” Dr. Fried says.

With accurate diagnoses by a dermatologist, effective treatments improve the appearance and function of the skin. This alone can substantially reduce patients’ stress and improve their skin, hair and nail conditions.

However, Dr. Fried says that if stress is clearly interfering with patients’ overall well-being and ability to cope, simultaneous additional stress-management interventions are warranted.

In some instances, referral to a mental health professional who has an interest and understanding of skin problems might be warranted.

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Looking in the mirror can be a terrifying experience at this time of year. If you’ve ever stuck out a summer in the UK then the lack of sun has probably left you pasty-faced; if your hair is anything like mine it might well resemble that of an old English sheep dog and your long-hidden body could well be gathering dust (tights already anyone?).

Equally, if you’re lucky enough to have grabbed a week in the sun, your post-beach hair might well be fried to a crisp; your skin shedding itself like fish scales and your tan so blotchy you’ve booked a doctors appointment for fear of a serious skin condition. Add to this the fact it’s too rainy to wear your sundress but not cold enough to wear next season’s trends and we’re all left in some sort of weird, depressing style limbo.

Thankfully, there is a light. The easiest way to perk up your looks and boost your spirits at this time of year is to add some glamour-inducing treats into your beauty regime. Beautification has been proven, throughout historys toughest times to raise morale – in WW II women were advised to ‘Put their Best face Forward’ at all times – and with the credit crunch munching away at our pockets a few beauty products become way less expensive than investing in an entire new wardrobe.

Everyone will benefit from a radiant, glowing complexion. If yours is somewhat lacklustre then give it the kiss of life with an active ingredient loaded moisturising cream.
Korres Wild Rose 24-Hour Moisturizer SPF 6 and
Korres Wild Rose Instant Brightening & Illuminating Vitamin C Mask 1.35 fl oz.
is a great place to start – containing Wild Rose oil, a natural source of Vitamin C, it reduces and prevents the appearance of brown spots, clarifies skin tone and provides deep hydration leaving skin renewed in weeks.

Whether your body will be hiding under a Burberry mac all summer or whether it’ll be exposed in the skimpiest of string bikinis, I find the best treatment is a top-to-toe exfoliation (let go of the tan girls, pale skin will be in for the autumn).
Korres Olive Stones Natural Scrub 40 ml contains olive stones, calendula extracts and wheat germ oil, giving you smooth, peachy skin in minutes. For particularly parched skin, follow up with Philosophy Hope In A Jar Therapeutic Moisturizer For Dry Sensitive Skin
, which contains a cocktail of nourishing ingredients from blemish-defying lavender oil to nourishing cucumber and anti-ageing chyamomilla Recutita. Too good to be restricted to shins – I recommend slathering it anywhere that feels crocodile-like.

When it comes to make-up and hair trends, this month try eschewing dramatic style statements – you’ll derive the best feel-good factor from making yourself look as healthy as possible before the autumn/winter trends hit. To bring abused hair back from the brink try
John Masters Organics Honey & Hibiscus Hair Reconstructor 4 fl oz which uses organic essential oils of honey, lavender, pink grapefruit and ylang ylang to help reconstruct brittle ends and leave hair gorgeously glossy.

For the face, invest in the Becca Cosmetics Avalon Palette, a suits-all make-up treat containing the brand’s best-selling bronze eye shadows, rose tinted blush, fleshy lip creme and a dazzling clear gloss for the ultimate wholesome, no-make-up look.

Sunshine? Who cares.

Saving face: The secret to beautiful skin can be literally in your own hands

Pricey anti-aging creams and weekly facials are getting harder to rationalize. Especially when there’s a free skin treatment at your fingertips.

“Your hands are the ultimate tools. They can gauge your skin’s condition like a sensor and smooth out wrinkles like an iron,” says Japanese skin-care guru Chizu Saeki. The former Christian Dior esthetician has spent 45 years in the beauty industry and sold over 3 million books on DIY skin care in Japan.

Her latest book, The Japanese Skincare Revolution: How to Have the Most Beautiful Skin of Your Life–At Any Age has been translated into English for the first time, offering practical techniques to combat everything from puffiness to dry skin, using simple massage methods and quick facials with items readily available at home.

Having suffered from “flaky dry skin” in the past, Saeki developed a “steam pack” facial — applying a thick layer of your regular moisturizer, then covering your face with a plastic shower cap or Saran wrap (with breathing holes for your nose and mouth) for 5 to 10 minutes to create a sauna-like effect.

“The moisture will deeply penetrate your skin, giving it clarity,” says Saeki.

“This technique is called occlusion,” says Dr. Joyce Davis, a Manhattan-based dermatologist, who adds that it’s a common technique for relieving dryness caused by psoriasis and eczema.

“It is an instant fix for a temporarily smoother, plumper complexion for someone with very dry skin,” she says.

However, it’s not the best treatment for everyone. Warns Davis: “If you’re acne prone, you don’t want to use a heavy moisturizer on the face.”

Good for any skin type are Saeki’s facial massages, which she claims reduce puffiness and lessen wrinkles by draining lymphatic fluid and “toning the dermis and muscles.”

The doctor’s verdict?

“Lymphatic drainage massages can possibly reduce swelling from fluid accumulation in the tissues,” she notes.

“But when you massage a muscle, you relax it, so it’s not going to tighten the jaw or lift the face.”

Though calling it a freebie face-lift may be a stretch, Saeki’s facial massage does have its fans.

Brooklynite Jenny Sandbank tested the steam pack facial using moisturizer from her bathroom cabinet and Saran wrap from her kitchen cupboard.

“When I pulled it off, my skin was really dewy and glowy and so hydrated,” says Sandbank, 42.

“A guy called me ‘Miss’ that afternoon, and I can’t remember the last time that happened,” she grins.

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